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RE: 5th wheel adaptor question
Being that it's a smaller 5er, I'd say a GN adapter would work fine. You could eventually always change over to the companion later when you upgrade to a bigger 5er!
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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08/21/08 10:21am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Air conditioning question?
Here's the questions (and I apologize again for being long-winded, but wanted to give as much detail as possible):
1. Is this A/C performance normal?
Yes....hmmm...No it should do way better than that...ie... your old unit?
2. Am I wrong to expect it to cool much better than this?
Yes....No your Not wrong to expect better, it Should be better!
3. Should I carry it back to the dealer and ask them to "do something?"
Yes have vents replaced with ones that will close so you can only cool the living area . Yes. your most likly loosing cold air into the attic or you have cold air returning directly into the the return air without going into the camper.
4. Is my best option just to buy a duct that can be closed off for the bathroom and the bedroom, to force all the air to the rear living area?
Yes Yes...so you can taylor your air flow
What shore power is available. 50 amps? 30 amps? If 30 amps you are probably limited to one AC. Is it a 13,500 or 15,000 If 13,500
You may be able to get the bigger unit.
Good luck
I went through the same BS with my Keystone outback 5er. Click the link for more info as to what i did to fix it! CLICK HERE
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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08/21/08 09:35am |
Tech Issues
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RE: New Rubber Roof
Read your rubber roof and then throw it in the trash good for about 2 years
huh?
Huh? X2
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/11/08 10:17am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Structural Problem on Foreward Frame Hitch Attachment Area
Now is this 10" extension added to a already "extended" pinbox? if so then...yes it did contribute to the frame problems your having now. It can only go downhill from there. You have serious problems...sorry
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/10/08 03:31pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Help with wiring 2nd A/C in front bedroom
This is what i did. Now for sure your layout is different,...but the idea is the same...start from the vent that you want to install the AC in & work your way via any access hole that you can to the nearest closet or other path into the basement. In my case it was to the skylight & down the back of the shower. It could had just as easily been run inside the entertainment center(exposed in the cabinet) & into the basement that way. Also the Coleman Polar Cub i'm referring to is now rated @9,000btu instead of 8,300btu. Hope this helps!
Click here
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/10/08 03:26pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: installing a receiver hitch in short bed trucks
Thanks for all the info -- it really helps to get feedback from others who have shortbed trucks! i keep going back and forth between a superglide and am ez roller -- i have been told that placing the hitch 3 inches behind the axels will be ok -- your thoughts? In response to mikehart i measured the bed and it is 5'8 -- i have the 4 full doors on this truck.
Hmmm...a 5.8 bed, 4 full size doors, 4x4. Sounds like a reg. 1500...not a HD. I'd be very weary of pulling a 29-30ft 5er with a true CC 1500 1/2 tonn. These trucks have the super short bed, not the 6.5 ft. bed = NO workee for me.
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/08/08 08:30am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Bad Smell
Is you Crapper plastic? if so then check the seam where the toilet was put together. Also if it's a thetford plastic aqua magic, make sure you clean & disinfect the insides of the toilet itself. These crappers are hallow,...meaning everything exiting the sliding valve in the bowl Can splash & splatter around the Hallow insides of the toilet & build up after a few rather nasty runny flushes(if you know what i mean) Everything is supposed to funnel out of the bottem but some always gets left behind. Use a hose wand that will spray at 90 degrees, open the bowl valve & spray the toilet out right below the valve. If you do have a air leak at the seam where the upper half & the lower half meet then the "left overs" inside the hallow toilet will really be noticeable via a ghastly nasty order that no amount of airfreshner or disinfectant poured do into the black tank will kill!
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/07/08 03:43pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: installing a receiver hitch in short bed trucks
I pull a 31ft. Keystone outback with a 15K. pro-series non slider hitch mounted 2in forward the axle with no problems. Now if i really wanted to...i could kiss the back of the cab with the camper...but i'd really have to work at it. This also depends on the wheelbase of you truck. My 02 SWB 2500hd CC has about the same wheelbase(turning radius) as a extended cab LWB. What i'm saying is in my case i have to have the tiller hard-over to port or starboard for a while before the camper zeros-in on the cab. Hence i can watch it closer. Now a shorter wheelbase will turn tighter & the cab issues will creep up on you more quickly. But in any case iv'e not been in a situation where i needed to turn that tight yet.
Edit: I'm almost sure you have a CC right? if so then you have the same wheelbase, turning radius & bed size as my 02. As far as pulling with a 1500? Your HD 1500 is in reality a base 2500...plenty of truck for your camper.
IMO on a slider? I don't need one. If i'm turning that sharp, then i'm putting some serious twisting strain on the trailer axles & frame. So far i'm doing fine with one i have.
Consider a Sidewinder? I'm still on the bubble on this one. I'd like to know for sure that the frame mfgs. endorse them then i might try one. untill then, i'll keep my factory extended pinbox/current setup.
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/07/08 08:34am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: A Picture Of The Dometic Recall Kit
He He....that's about right!
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/03/08 02:43pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 2010 Duramax - over 700 lbs-ft?
At least Chevy is finally going to do something with that big ol' ugly a** chrome front bumper.
AMEN!!!
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/03/08 09:46am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Retrofitting a second A/C
2nd AC install This is what i did. This will anwser you questions.
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/03/08 09:05am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 2nd AC size for 36L5S Silverback Fifth Wheel
I have a 2008 Challenger 15k in living room and just added a 9000btu low profile in the bedroom and it is more than enough for my 37'.
I can run all my appliances with both running without any problems.
We added a 9000btu (700-900 watts draw) to our 31 ft. 5er bedroom. It cools every bit as good as a 13.5! Moneies Well Spent!
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/02/08 04:00pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Replacing Dometic Cooling Unit
You have about 6-8 screws holding the Reefer in the cabinet(2-3 in back at the bottom & the rest around the top & sides inside the molding of the reefer itself). NOTE: it may be easier to remove the reefer doors to reduce weight & make it easier to handle. Now You have to unhook the gas line(make sure it's off at the tanks) Next the 12v wires(make a note as the when they go) & lastly unplug the 110v. Now the hard part...sliding the unit out & getting it out of the camper without tearing or scratching the hell out of the interior of the camper. That being done now disconnect the control box & remove it, then the gas jet, & the unscrew the Cooling unit frame from the back of the unit. Also go inside the unit & remove all the screws holding the cooling fins to the cooling unit(6-8 of them) Now it's the tricky part...pulling the cooling unit off the reefer box itself. Seperate the foil tape (if used) as a seal & cut through any adheasive that you can find in this joint with a putty knife. Start with the bottom of the cooling unit prying it away from the back of the reefer. If needed use a pry bar to coax out the cooling unit coils out of the inside box area. NOTE: make sure you use some flat wood blocking under the prybar for you with crush in the back of the reefer box before the cooling coils let loose. On my unit the cooling fins inside the reefer came out still attached to the cooling unit. No problem just seperate them after it's apart & place them back the exact way that the came out(if you put them back in upside down then the screw holes will not realign. You will get a tube of seal/adv. & a tube of cold conducting goo to put back on the cooling coils so they make GOOD contact with the internal cooling fins. Then the other tube is for resealing the new cooling unit to the reefer box. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the reefer for reference when reconnecting all the wiring. almost all of the connections are easy to figure out once you dive into it...I know i was Skeered about all the wiring, but i figured it out quickly after i had it apart. I'd figure on a scale of 1-to-10...this project would rate a 5. Just make sure you have help manhandeling the unit & you will be OK. I'm sure i skipped some parts, but this will give you a idea as to what your up against. Would i do it again?...YES no problem...just make sure you have a helping hand moving the reefer around.
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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07/02/08 03:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 5ver steel carports California?
Whatever you do...make sure you use concrete anchors on each corner(3-4ft deep) If you don't you will be replacing it after your first 50-70mph wind storm! The rebar anchors do no good what-so-ever.
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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06/30/08 01:27pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Has anyone tried the new 115v portable air cond.
One thing to remember about venting a portable AC in a camper. Your creating a low pressure area inside your camper,...thus you will be drawing in hot humid outside air constantly from any air leaks inside the camper...ie from roof vents, toilet, seals around dorrs & windows..etc. Bottom line is any air removed from inside the camper has to be replaced with the likewise same amount of air from the outside.
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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06/27/08 09:01am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Shut off Refrig or leave on between trips?
I "used" to keep our reefer plugged in 24/7 Till it failed & i had to replace the cooling unit. My reefer is a dometic...figures right! Anyways(to me anyway) if i had cut off the reefer inbetween camping trips it may not had failed. Since the reason for the failure was the infamous "stress crack" at the bottom of the weld where the tube that holds the heating element next to the boiler. This happens because of continued cycling (on & off) hence the metal getting glowing hot...then cooling off continuesly. Now my reefer says OFF between trips. But thats just IMO...others tout their units working fine for years & years 24/7 so i may be wrong...oh well
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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06/23/08 11:06am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 2nd A/C
I went with the Coleman Polar Cub 9000btu
Good choice! That Polar Cub cools every bit as good as a 13.5 How is it hooked up?...does it have it's own cord or is it hooked to a prewired system? When i installed mine, i ran a seperate 12ga. cord to hook to the 110v. duplex outlet on the shore power independent of my 30a. cord. This gives me alot more options when it comes to dry camping.
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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06/17/08 08:37am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 2nd A/C
Brrrr....it feels GREAT doesn't it!
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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06/16/08 02:57pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 2nd AC question, yes i did a search
Hello fella Texican! I added a 2nd AC to our outback...a Coleman Polar Cub 8300 btu low profile unit. When they first came out, they rated them at 7700btu, then upped them to 8300btu...& then again to 9200btu. To the best of my knowledge they are all the same unit. I my install instructions(the brands your looking at my be different)...call for the unit to Not be slanted forward more than 5 degrees, & no more than 15 degrees tilted back. 2nd AC install This link describes my install /pics
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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06/16/08 09:38am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Another AC Issue
I'd do some checking out on my own first. First & formost, make sure your return air is not leaking back into the cold air output. Your AC unit funnels the cold air & the return air both through a 14"x14" opening(standard vent size)
What can, will & does sometimes happen is there is a leak develops around the baffle that separates the two(cold air & return air). When this happens...you will see reduced output of cold air at the vents(even though it may be real cold...it will not cool your camper down) The return air is sucking cold air right back into the unit with out cooling the camper. Another thing to check in the same area, is leaks from the cold air side into the attic. If you have either of the problems,...your AC will never cool properly. Seal these up & you will see a big difference. If you have a particular duct putting out a marginal amount of air, then it may be blocked by construction scrap leftovers, or it may have collapsed causing your cooled air to go uselessly into the attic or not go at all. Check the temp of the cooled air vs. the temp of the return air there should be a 20+ degree difference...or maybe even more 25-6+ degree difference. If it's only 10ish then you may have problem that indeed requires a AC tech.
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Dark Green HD Dmax
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06/12/08 08:49am |
Fifth-Wheels
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